Bluewater Marlin Yellowfin Trucker Hat
by @dekasso
Two fast fish, one patch of blue.
A marlin and a yellowfin tuna squaring up under a broken ocean surface, in navy, teal, cobalt and lemon yellow, for days offshore.
A marlin and a yellowfin tuna face off just under a breaking ocean surface, the marlin's bill angled toward the tuna. The scene is coloured in navy, ocean teal and cobalt, with lemon yellow fins and white spray along the top.
- Marlin and yellowfin tuna, nose to nose
- Lemon yellow finlets on deep cobalt
- Breaking white surface along the top
- Light shafts fading from teal to navy
- Eight colour layers, background to highlight
The cap
One design, four caps. The front panel is what the paint or the dye sits on, so it changes the hat.

Trucker
The house cap — structured mid profile, foam-and-mesh back, snapback.
Specs
- Profile
- Mid profile
- Build
- 6-panel · Structured — buckram behind the front
- Crown
- 3½ in (8.9 cm)
- Visor
- Pre-curved, 2¾ in (7 cm)
- Closure
- Snapback
- Adjusts to
- 21½–24 in (54.5–61 cm)
- Airbrushed on
- Natural cotton twill
- Sublimated on
- White polyester foam

Rope cap
Structured five-panel with a near-flat brim and a cord across it.
Specs
- Profile
- Mid-high profile
- Build
- 5-panel · Structured
- Crown
- 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Visor
- Near-flat, 2⅞ in (7.3 cm), contrast rope
- Closure
- Snapback
- Adjusts to
- 21½–23¾ in (54.5–60.5 cm)
- Airbrushed on
- Stone cotton twill
- Sublimated on
- White polyester twill

Dad hat
Soft, low and unstructured — washed cotton with a strap back.
Specs
- Profile
- Low profile
- Build
- 6-panel · Unstructured — soft front
- Crown
- 3¼ in (8.3 cm)
- Visor
- Curved, 2¾ in (7 cm)
- Closure
- Strap back, brass buckle
- Adjusts to
- 21–23½ in (53.5–59.5 cm)
- Airbrushed on
- Washed khaki cotton
- Sublimated on
- White polyester twill

Five-panel camp
Flat brim, low crown, packs flat in a vest pocket.
Specs
- Profile
- Low profile
- Build
- 5-panel · Unstructured
- Crown
- 3¼ in (8.3 cm)
- Visor
- Flat, 2½ in (6.4 cm)
- Closure
- Strap back, side-release clip
- Adjusts to
- 21½–23½ in (54.5–59.5 cm)
- Airbrushed on
- Field olive nylon-cotton
- Sublimated on
- White polyester
Fit

| Cap | Profile | Crown height | Visor | Adjusts to |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trucker | Mid profile | 3½ in (8.9 cm) | Pre-curved, 2¾ in (7 cm) | 21½–24 in (54.5–61 cm) |
| Rope cap | Mid-high profile | 4 in (10.2 cm) | Near-flat, 2⅞ in (7.3 cm), contrast rope | 21½–23¾ in (54.5–60.5 cm) |
| Dad hat | Low profile | 3¼ in (8.3 cm) | Curved, 2¾ in (7 cm) | 21–23½ in (53.5–59.5 cm) |
| Five-panel camp | Low profile | 3¼ in (8.3 cm) | Flat, 2½ in (6.4 cm) | 21½–23½ in (54.5–59.5 cm) |
One size per cap. Run a tape around your head just above the ears, keeping it level — anything inside the range above will close on it.
Two finishes
The same design, made two ways. Pick one in the panel; the cap and the quantity are yours to choose too.

Hand airbrushed
$85 for one hat, on a trucker
Painted to order — would ship in about 2 weeks
How it is made
- How it is made
- Sprayed by hand through this design's own stencils, one layer at a time, each left to dry before the next mask goes down.
- How it looks
- Soft gradients and hand-cut stencil edges. Every cap is a little different.
- What it sits on
- On a natural cotton twill front.
- Durability and care
- Water-based paint, heat set and sealed. It takes rain and a season on a boat; spot clean with cool water, never a washing machine.

Sublimation printed
$32 for one hat, on a trucker
Printed to order — would ship in 5–7 business days
How it is made
- How it is made
- The design is printed in dye onto transfer paper, then pressed with heat so the dye soaks into the polyester fibres.
- How it looks
- Full colour edge to edge, and identical every time.
- What it sits on
- On a white polyester foam front — sublimation only takes on white polyester.
- Durability and care
- The dye is in the fibre, not on it, so it will not crack or peel. Gentle wash, air dry.
The artwork
A yellowfin swims in from the left, finlets bright lemon. A striped marlin turns in from the right, sail raised, bill pointed down at it. Above them the surface breaks white, and pale light slants into teal water that darkens to navy at the edges.
It belongs on the deck, at the fuel dock and on the drive home with salt still drying. From across a cockpit people see the yellow first, then the bill, then the two fish sizing each other up.
White spatter along the top line is what turns flat colour into a breaking surface. Keep the drops loose and uneven, and let teal show between them so the wave reads as water, not a stripe.

What arrives
- The hat
- A care card
- On a hand airbrushed hat, a numbered tag naming the water it was painted from, when the design names one

Looking after it
Hand airbrushed
- Spot clean with cool water and a soft brush. Never a washing machine.
- Keep it out of a hot car for long stretches — heat-set paint is tough, but a dashboard in July is not a test worth running.
- Reshape the brim by hand while damp.
Sublimation printed
- Spot clean, or gently hand wash in cool water. No bleach.
- Air dry. Do not iron the print.
- Reshape the brim by hand while damp.
- The dye is in the fibre, so the print will not crack or peel.
Details
Airbrush palette
- Colours
- navy, ocean teal, cobalt, lemon yellow, silver grey, white
Details
- Subject
- marlin and yellowfin tuna
- Style
- illustrated underwater scene
Make it yourself

The palette
- Navy
- Ocean teal
- Cobalt
- Lemon yellow
- Silver grey
- White
The layers
8 layers, in this order. Each mask comes off and the paint has to dry before the next one goes down.
- Deep water
- Open water
- Light shafts
- Fish bellies
- Backs and bars
- Yellow
- Detail
- Surface and spray
The kit's stencil set is cut from these layers; with the cutter (12 hats and up) you cut your own from this design's layer files.
How to mix each colour
Navy
3 parts blue, 1 part black; mix it, do not use black straight, which goes flat
Ocean teal
2 parts blue, 1 part green, a touch of white to lift it
Cobalt
Mix by eye against the photograph; test on the card first
Lemon yellow
Mix by eye against the photograph; test on the card first
Silver grey
Metallic silver, or 6 parts white to 1 part black in a pearl or metallic medium
White
Opaque white from the bottle; two thin coats cover better than one thick one
Setup
- Ventilation or a spray booth. Water-based paint still throws a fine mist, and you will be breathing it for hours.
- A half-mask respirator rated for paint mists. A dust mask is not one.
- A compressor with a moisture trap, set and tested on a card before you start: wet air spits water into the paint.
- Reducer and a cleaning pot within reach, so a clog is a ten-second fix instead of a ruined panel.
- Spray a test card for every colour before it touches the cap. Colour reads differently wet, dry and on twill.
Prep
- Lint-roll the front panel. Every fibre left on it prints as a speck in the paint.
- Mask the mesh, any seams you want clean and the whole visor, underside included, with low-tack tape and paper.
- Stretch the crown over the cap jig so the front panel is taut and curved the way it will be worn. Spraying a slack panel flat distorts the design when it is worn.
- Spray one light coat of transparent base so the colour sits on the fabric instead of soaking into it.
Layer by layer
1 · Deep water — 0.5 mm · 25–30 PSI
navy — a dark fade along the bottom edge and both sides
Mask None on the panel itself: the mesh and the visor are already masked from the prep.
Colour Navy — 3 parts blue, 1 part black; mix it, do not use black straight, which goes flat
- Needle
- 0.5 mm (a 0.35 mm works, it just takes longer)
- Pressure
- 25–30 PSI
- Distance
- 6–8 in from the panel
- Passes
- 3–4 light passes, building the colour
- Dry
- 10 minutes, or 60–90 seconds with a heat gun on low, before the next mask goes down
Tip Fade wet to dry and never lay one heavy coat: twill wicks paint sideways and the edge blooms.
2 · Open water — 0.35 mm · 20–25 PSI
ocean teal — the lit water body, brightest just under the surface
Mask Lay this layer's mylar stencil and burnish the edges flat with your thumbnail.
Colour Ocean teal — 2 parts blue, 1 part green, a touch of white to lift it
- Needle
- 0.35 mm
- Pressure
- 20–25 PSI
- Distance
- 4–6 in from the panel
- Passes
- 2–3 passes
- Dry
- 10 minutes before lifting the stencil
Tip Spray away from the stencil edge, not into it, so the air does not push paint underneath.
3 · Light shafts — 0.35 mm · 20–25 PSI
silver grey — faint rays slanting down from the surface
Mask Lay this layer's mylar stencil and burnish the edges flat with your thumbnail.
Colour Silver grey — Metallic silver, or 6 parts white to 1 part black in a pearl or metallic medium
- Needle
- 0.35 mm
- Pressure
- 20–25 PSI
- Distance
- 4–6 in from the panel
- Passes
- 2–3 passes
- Dry
- 10 minutes before lifting the stencil
Tip Spray away from the stencil edge, not into it, so the air does not push paint underneath.
4 · Fish bellies — 0.3 mm · 18–22 PSI
silver grey — the pale flanks and bellies of the tuna and the marlin
Mask The hand-cut subject stencil, inner pieces first, then the outline piece.
Colour Silver grey — Metallic silver, or 6 parts white to 1 part black in a pearl or metallic medium
- Needle
- 0.3 mm
- Pressure
- 18–22 PSI
- Distance
- 3–4 in from the panel
- Passes
- 2–3 passes per tone, light to dark
- Dry
- 10 minutes between tones
Tip Light tones first: a light colour over a dark one needs many coats, a dark one over a light one needs two.
5 · Backs and bars — 0.35 mm · 20–25 PSI
cobalt — the tuna's back, the marlin's back, dorsal sail and vertical bars
Mask Lay this layer's mylar stencil and burnish the edges flat with your thumbnail.
Colour Cobalt — Mix by eye against the photograph; test on the card first
- Needle
- 0.35 mm
- Pressure
- 20–25 PSI
- Distance
- 4–6 in from the panel
- Passes
- 2–3 passes
- Dry
- 10 minutes before lifting the stencil
Tip Spray away from the stencil edge, not into it, so the air does not push paint underneath.
6 · Yellow — 0.35 mm · 20–25 PSI
lemon yellow — the tuna's finlets, side stripe and fins, plus a warm sheen on the marlin's flank
Mask Lay this layer's mylar stencil and burnish the edges flat with your thumbnail.
Colour Lemon yellow — Mix by eye against the photograph; test on the card first
- Needle
- 0.35 mm
- Pressure
- 20–25 PSI
- Distance
- 4–6 in from the panel
- Passes
- 2–3 passes
- Dry
- 10 minutes before lifting the stencil
Tip Spray away from the stencil edge, not into it, so the air does not push paint underneath.
7 · Detail — 0.35 mm · 20–25 PSI
navy — fin edges, gill lines, mouths and pupils
Mask Lay this layer's mylar stencil and burnish the edges flat with your thumbnail.
Colour Navy — 3 parts blue, 1 part black; mix it, do not use black straight, which goes flat
- Needle
- 0.35 mm
- Pressure
- 20–25 PSI
- Distance
- 4–6 in from the panel
- Passes
- 2–3 passes
- Dry
- 10 minutes before lifting the stencil
Tip Spray away from the stencil edge, not into it, so the air does not push paint underneath.
8 · Surface and spray — 0.2–0.3 mm · 12–15 PSI
white — the breaking wave line along the top, splash, bubbles and eye glints
Mask None: freehand, with a shield card held against any hard edge.
Colour White — Opaque white from the bottle; two thin coats cover better than one thick one
- Needle
- 0.2–0.3 mm
- Pressure
- 12–15 PSI
- Distance
- 1–2 in from the panel
- Passes
- Freehand, in short controlled strokes
- Dry
- 10 minutes, then check it before you cure
Tip Low pressure, close in and moving: stop the stroke before you release the trigger.
Step by step
Mask the whole artwork panel and spray navy along the bottom and both sides in a soft fade. Start around 20 PSI, 0.3 mm needle, 15 cm away; treat all settings here as a starting point.
Spray ocean teal over the centre and top, building it brightest just under where the surface will sit. Same 20 PSI and 0.3 mm needle, 15–20 cm out for an even blend into the navy.
Lay thin strip masks at a slant and mist silver grey for the light shafts. Drop to about 15 PSI and hold 20 cm away so the rays stay faint.
Cut the tuna and marlin body masks and fill the bellies and flanks with silver grey at 18 PSI, 0.3 mm needle, 10 cm away.
Mask the bellies and spray cobalt on both backs, the marlin's dorsal sail and its vertical bars. Use 18 PSI and come in to 8 cm for crisp bar edges.
Mask for the tuna's finlets, side stripe and fins and spray lemon yellow at 15 PSI, 0.2 mm needle, 8 cm. Mist a light yellow sheen along the marlin's flank from 12 cm.
Switch to navy for fin edges, gill lines, mouths and pupils. A 0.2 mm needle at 12–15 PSI from 3–5 cm gives fine lines.
Spray the white wave line across the top, then spatter at 10–12 PSI from 15 cm for spray and bubbles. Finish with a tiny white glint in each eye.
Let the layers dry for at least 24 hours at room temperature before handling.
Seal with a clear flexible fabric-safe topcoat in two light passes, 15 minutes apart, then leave it to cure for 72 hours.
Cure
- Heat set at 300°F / 150°C. Water-based textile paint is not wash-fast until it is heat set.
- Cap press: 3–5 minutes with a teflon sheet over the design.
- Or heat gun: 2–3 minutes per panel, keeping it moving 2–3 in off the fabric so it does not scorch.
- If you have neither, air cure for 72 hours before the cap touches water.
Seal
- Two light coats of matte fabric sealer, UV-resistant, from 8–10 in, 15 minutes apart.
- Leave it 24 hours before the cap is worn.
- Never a gloss sealer on cotton twill: it shines, cracks along the creases and looks like a sticker.
Clean-up
- Flush the brush with water, then airbrush cleaner, until it sprays clear.
- Strip the needle and wipe it toward the tip, never away from it.
- Never soak the brush body overnight.
Common mistakes
- Over-wetting the yellow so it bleeds into the cobalt. Hold back, use light passes and let each one flash off.
- Spraying the light shafts too strongly so they look like stripes. Keep pressure low and distance long.
- Lifting masks before the paint is touch-dry and tearing edges. Wait a few minutes between layers.
- Skipping the cure before sealing, which can leave the topcoat cloudy. Give the paint a full day first.
Tips
- Test the spatter on scrap first. Lower pressure gives bigger drops; adjust until it looks like spray, not mist.
- Keep the marlin's bill one clean line. Cut that mask edge with a fresh blade so the point stays sharp.
- Build the teal in thin passes. Several light coats blend into the navy far more smoothly than one heavy one.
- Leave a hair of silver grey between the cobalt bars so the stripes read clearly.

Every kit size
Trucker · kit for 1 hat
$218
Bought separately $243 · you save $25
Includes Starter airbrush set · Cap jig · and 7 more
Every item in this kit · 9 items
Blanks
- Trucker blank, natural cotton twill front$9
Stencils
- Pre-cut mylar stencil set for this design — 8 layers$18
Paint & masks
- Water-based textile airbrush colour, 2 oz — one per colour in this design$36
- Transparent base and reducer, 4 oz$7
- Low-tack masking film and ¼ in tape$8
- Matte fabric sealer, 4 oz$12
Equipment
- Starter airbrush set — 0.3 mm dual-action gravity brush, mini compressor, braided hose$129
- Cap jig — holds the crown taut while you spray$24
Guide
- Printed step-by-step guide for this designIncluded
Trucker · kit for 12 hats
$1,061
$88.42 a hat
Bought separately $1,206 · you save $145
Includes Dual-action gravity-feed airbrush · Quiet compressor with tank and moisture trap · Cap jig and two spare crown forms · Tabletop spray booth with exhaust fan · and 11 more
Every item in this kit · 15 items
Blanks
- Trucker blank, natural cotton twill front$78
Stencils
- Desktop stencil cutter, 12 in — the "stencil printer": cuts mylar from this design's layer files$299
- Stencil mylar, 7 mil, 12 × 12 in$22
- This design's layer files, every layer (SVG)Included
Paint & masks
- Water-based textile airbrush colour, 4 oz — one per colour in this design$84
- Transparent base and reducer, 16 oz$16
- Low-tack masking film$18
- Matte fabric sealer, 16 oz$28
Equipment
- Dual-action gravity-feed airbrush, 0.3 mm$135
- Quiet compressor with tank and moisture trap$179
- Cap jig and two spare crown forms$64
- Tabletop spray booth with exhaust fan$149
- Cleaning pot, brushes and a half-mask respirator$99
- Heat gun for curing$35
Guide
- Printed step-by-step guide for this designIncluded
Trucker · kit for 12 × 12 hats
$3,083
$21.41 a hat
Bought separately $3,628 · you save $545
Includes Two dual-action gravity-feed airbrushes · Production airbrush · Twin-piston compressor with tank and two regulators · Production spray booth · and 13 more
Every item in this kit · 17 items
Blanks
- Trucker blank, natural cotton twill front$756
Stencils
- Stencil cutter-plotter, 24 in — the production "stencil printer"$649
- Stencil mylar, 7 mil, 12 × 12 in$85
- This design's layer files, every layer (SVG)Included
Paint & masks
- Water-based textile airbrush colour, 32 oz — one per colour in this design$288
- Transparent base and reducer$49
- Low-tack masking film$54
- Matte fabric sealer$89
Equipment
- Two dual-action gravity-feed airbrushes, 0.3 mm$270
- Production airbrush, 0.5 mm, for base fades$95
- Twin-piston compressor with tank and two regulators$329
- Production spray booth, two fans$289
- Three cap jigs$192
- Cleaning station, respirator and spare cartridges$139
- Cap heat press for curing$279
- Drying rack, 24 caps$65
Guide
- Printed step-by-step guide for this designIncluded
The creator

How it was made
1 iteration led here; the saved one is marked
1 Saved
Remixes
Remixed from
Salmonfly Hatch Trout Trucker Hat@dekasso · the original
- Bluewater Marlin Yellowfin Trucker Hatyou are here
Where this came from
“make it a marlin vs a yellowfin”
trucker hat · made
2 remixes
50 — from 2 remixes, at the Derby's published weights, since . Views are not counted.
- marlin
- yellowfin tuna
- tuna
- billfish
- offshore
- saltwater
- bluewater
- ocean
- sportfish
- trucker hat





